Orange Polka Dot

Grocery Series: Buying Beef in Spain

Spanish Cuts of Beef | Gastronomiaycia

It has been ages since I did a post for my grocery shopping series. But don't worry, I am still taking photos and risking have another run-in with security. In organizing my pictures, I came across this old one that I snapped because I found the wording and information interesting. 

In the United States, I don't believe I have ever seen such an informative food label on a piece of meat. First, the piece of meat is labeled as "Roti de Ternera, Calidad y Origen." I believe a "roti" is somewhat like a roast. (I hope someone will correct me on this if I am wrong.) What I first noticed though was the listing "edad de sacrificio de 8 a 12 meses" (slaughtered age between 8 and 12 months). I really appreciate that the Spanish word for "slaughter" when related to meat is "sacrificio." I believe there is a stronger connection here between the fact that an animal has been sacrificed to provide a human with food. I doubt there are children here that think meat is made at the grocery store! The label also tells us that the animal was born in Spain ("nacido en Espana"). We also know the animal was raised in Spain ("engordado en Espana"), slaughtered and butchered in Spain ("sacrificado" y "depiece en Espana"). 

In Spain, buying beef can be a little tricky. Much of the beef you see in the supermarket, butcher or restaurants is labeled as "ternera." A quick look in your tourist dictionary may lead you to believe that"ternera" is veal. And out the window flies your idea of ordering albondigas or bistec at the charming tapas restaurant. Chat among Spain expat bloggers, language and recipe forums about "ternera" can also lead to confusion, with many insisting that "ternera" is veal.

Now, I am not a beef expert (although, being married to a man from Argentina has got to give me some points!). And I am sure that beef terms and labels are a bit different in my part of Catalunya than other parts of Spain. Definitely different than other Spanish-speaking countries. When we first moved here, my carnivore Argentine husband translated "ternera" as veal. Based on the amount of "ternera" labels I saw while grocery shopping, I was shocked by how much veal Catalans ate. And then I had my doubts. Could they really be eating this much veal - a meat that conventional wisdom says is expensive and controversial?

My desire to prove my husband wrong led me to conduct some informal research at local butchers and supermarkets. "Ternera" is not veal as we know it in the USA. In the United States, a calf slaughted between 16 and 18 weeks is considered veal (about 4 to 4.5 months old). The meat in my picture, labelled "ternera," was much older - 8 to 12 months (32 to 48 weeks old). According to the butchers I spoke with, "ternera," refers to young beef, but not totally veal. For what we, in the USA, consider veal, the beef would be labeled as "ternera lechal" (milk beef) or perhaps "ternera blanca." 

The beef from the above photo is labeled as "ternera blanca," and was slaughtered before it was 8 months old. Possibly veal in USA terms, but also possibly a wee bit older than the USA requirement for veal. I haven't quite figured out the USA equivalent to "babilla." And this young calf got around in his short life. He was born in Germany, raised and slaughtered in The Netherlands, back to Germany for butchering and now being sold in plastic wrap in Spain. 

You many also see some beef in Spain labeled as "añojo," which refers to beef that is between 18 and 24 months old. This beef was born, raised in Germany and traveled to The Netherlands for butchering before being sold in Spain. 

Isn't it interesting that there are so many terms to classify beef in Spain? And wouldn't you like to know where you beef has been before it is on your plate?  

I tend to buy my beef at a local butcher where they know me and love to answer all my beefy questions. Often times, when in doubt, I bring in a picture of the meat cut I want so they can show me the equivalent. I promise to take some pictures at the butcher. I absolutely love going to the butcher. I swear, I am tempted to ask them if they will hire me for a week, so that I can learn the proper way to cut meat. Maybe one of these days I will gather the courage to ask. 

Life in Spain: Organic Recycling

Recycling Bin in Sant Cugat | 2011

I bet you don't find this thrown on the ground beside your city's organic garbage recycling bin. 

What the heck is that... you ask. 

• Just your average leg of jamon that is commonplace in the bars and homes across Spain. 

To find out more about Spanish jamon and why you might trip over a devoured pig leg on the ground in Spain, check out my post on jamon. 

If you are looking to buy jamon, La Tienda, a gourmet Spanish food importer with a fabulous online shop, is a great start. I am an affiliate so if you buy anything I will get a small commission, which I will probably use to fund my jamon addiction. 

 

Catalan Festivals: Sant Joan 2011

It is official Summer has arrived in Catalunya. Not because Summer Solstice was on the 21st of June. But rather, because tonight is the eve of Sant Joan. Otherwise known as La Revetlla. For the past few nights, we have heard the popping of firecrackers in anticipation of the loud celebration that will fill the night air until sunrise across Catalunya. 

Many people will gather on the beach to light bonfires, watch firework displays over the Mediterranean, drink cava and eat cocas. Since we will have the kids and mi suegra (mother-in-law) in tow, we will be checking out the festivities in Sant Cugat. There is a parade of the arrival of the La Flama del Canigó, which will light bonfires throughout Catalunya. And without a doubt, we get a big dose of the Catalan festival usual suspects - sardaners, bastoners, diablos and castellers. Later, we will watch the fireworks from our terrace while sipping Codorniu cava and nibbling cocas. You can read one of my older blog posts to see how we celebrated Sant Joan a few years ago. 

Traditional Catalan Cocas, Frutas and Llardons

The celebration of Sant Joan is full of symbolic meanings related to herbs, water and fire. Skinny dipping along the bonfire-lit beaches isn't just a bit of racy fun, it is healthy. On the night of Sant Joan, water is believed to have strong curative powers. "Bany de Sant Joan, salut per tot l'any" (Catalan translation: Bathe on Sant Joan and have health for the whole year.) Some may gather herbs (no, not those kind - more likely verbena, thyme, rosemary and Sant John) for treatments as their medicinal properties is believed to be 100 times stronger on this night. "Les herbes de Sant Joan tenen virtut tot l'any" (Catalan translation: The herbs of Sant Joan retain their virtues all year round.) Bonfires and firecrackers are lit to purify and cleanse oneself of misfortune. "Qui encén foc per Sant Joan no es crema en tot l'any" (Catalan translation: He who lights the fire for Sant Joan will not burn all year round.)

More Information About Sant Joan and Activities in Barcelona:

• Barcelona Sant Joan Activities (English) 
• Recipes for Traditional Sant Joan Cocas
• More About Sant Joan

 

Catalan Customs: Birthday Parties

Typical Catalan birthday game (a more friendly alternative to a pinata) | 2010

A recent article from a fellow Barcelona blogger who writes for a local magazine, reminded me of a draft post that I started on 14 September 2010, a few days after my daughter's 7th birthday party. (I told you I had a backlog!) 

Having children in a foreign country gives you behind the scenes access to an event filled with cultural differences, which provide a deeper understanding of the local culture. The Birthday Party. 

We have hosted several birthday parties at our home since moving to Barcelona. With each party, I have adopted some local customs and yet, probably still leave some parents wondering "what kind of birthday party is this?" After attending birthday parties regularly (read, at least two a month) for the past two years, I have a better grip on how a kid's birthday party operates here. I really love going to the parties and noting the differences and similiarities. After all, most cultures celebrate birthdays, but how it is done can be completely different. And since we have been celebrating birthdays since our first birthday, it is surprising to realize how ingrained birthday customs so that operate on autopilot during parties. 

The Invitation

Don't be surprised when your child brings home a birthday party invitation the day before the party. Seriously, the day before!!! I don't think I will ever get used to this one. The first time it happened, I perceived the parents as poor party planners. But then it happened again and again. Chats with the other expat moms assured me that this was totally normal. Even with short notice, Catalan parents make a big effort to have their children attend the party. No wonder everyone found me strange, when I sent a "save the date" email for my son's party. 

The Gift

 
My son (in colored shirt) gives his friend his birthday gift | 2010

You can also forget about a big gift opening scene at a Catalan birthday party (at least in all the parties I have attended). Commonly, in the US, the birthday child will open all of their presents surrounded by their guests. In Catalunya, upon arrival, the excited guest runs as quickly as possible, with gift in hand, to find the birthday child. After a hug and two-cheek kiss, the guest gives the gift and it is immediately ripped open on the spot. At first I thought it was a bit out of control, but I have taken a liking to this approach. I find the moment is what gift giving should be - a shared moment of appreciation between the giver and receiver. Although it makes gift tracking for future thank you notes a bit difficult. 

The Cake

Typical Catalan birthday cakes at a recent birthday party

In the United States, themed birthday cakes are so common that you can buy a cake decorated in any theme at the supermarket. Go to the supermarket here in search of a basic cake and you will find something that looks like a grown-up cake. You won't have better luck going to a bakery either. (Although, in the 2+ years I have been here I have seen several specialty US-style cake decorators appear on the scene.) Judging by the size of the baking supply and ingredient section in the markets, I don't believe making decorated birthday cakes, let alone baking* period, is a big activity for Catalan parents. (*At least from my US-centric view of baking breads, pies, cookies and cakes. And who can blame them with two bakeries on every block!)

A typical birthday cake from a bakery or supermarket | Cocina Con Luz Verde

Within our circle of local friends, the moms do typically bake a very simple birthday cake. Perhaps a chocolate cake with an M&M-type candy spelling the child's name. Or maybe it is the Catalan version of the "sheet cake" - bizcocho or a thicker coca (like the first picture with three cakes) with sprinkles and a chocolate shape cut-out on top. Usually the cakes are less sweet and have a more dry texture compared to US cakes.

Cake I made for my daughter's 7th birthday | 2010

In the US, even the most inexperienced baker will whip up a decorated birthday cake. Parent magazines and websites always give instructions. It is easy to find cake decorating stores or little decoration trinkets at the supermarket. Heck, you can give take a cake decorating class at your local craft store. While a few cake decorating classes are popping up in Barcelona there is not the abundance of cake decorating options to be found. At the first birthday party we had here, I made a red cake with pink candy jewels and edible flowers. A local exclaimed, "What is it? Can we eat it? I have never seen anything like it." At first, I thought she was worried about the health aspects of the red food coloring. (My kids do attend a Waldorf school.) Turns out, she really has never seen anything like it at a birthday party. 

Typical American ingredients are hard time find - powdered sugar comes in a plastic shaker tube (not near the quantity needed to make frosting) and vanilla, don't even get me started (I have to trek to a special shop for it). Of course, I don't expect to find American ingredients here, but powdered sugar and vanilla extract seem fairly basic baking ingredients in many Western cultures. When we first moved here, I sawed open about five azucar glace shaker bottles to speed up my frosting creation, which resulted in shards of plastic sprinkled throughout the frosting. All that effort and I had to dump it in the trash. Now, I buy powdered sugar by the kilo from a cake decorating store in Madrid and other ingredients at a specialized restaurant/patisserie supply store in Barcelona. 

The Time

If the birthday party is held during the week, it will typically be after school, during the berenar (catalan) / la mirienda (castellano) time. Which is about 5 pm and would probably end before 8 pm (well before dinner). A few weeks ago, we went to a group birthday party (another common practice of holding one party for several classmates) on a Saturday that started at 4 pm. We left at 9:30 and we were one of the first families to leave! If the party is held on the weekend, it may start earlier, but must be observant of the Catalan's strict oberservance of "el tiempo de la comida" (lunch time). Catalans eat lunch at 2, 3 or even as late as 4 pm on the weekends. One of my son's parties started at 11 am on a Saturday. A Catalan friend was wondering if we would include lunch because it was such an odd time for a party. Although we had a ton of tapas, empanadas, pizza and Spanish tortillas, I thought for sure we would not have to worry about lunch because the party would be over by 2 pm. I was wrong. The party lasted until 5-6 pm. Thank goodness we had lots of food, even if it wasn't a typical Catalan lunch, people weren't hungry (I hope). Recently, we were at an American birthday party that started at 12 and lasted beyond 4 pm. Around 2 pm, some cheese or ham sandwiches were passed around. There wasn't enough for all the kids, so I assume it was not thought of as the lunch option, as probably the American family already had lunch before the party. In between party games, I noticed one Catalan family had packed a "tupper" (Tupperware) for "la comida." Perhaps word got around that the Americans don't serve a proper lunch at birthdays, so you better bring your own. 

 
Jump rope is a popular party game for girls and boys | 2010

The Location

Many Catalans live in pisos (a large apartment/flat), so they tend to hold birthdays at parks or indoor play spaces. Since we have never been to a "ludoteca" party, check out Joanna's experience over at The Metropolitan. At a park, parents will bring folding tables or cover the permanent ping pong tables with a table cloth. A grandparent's house with a large backyard or a masia (old, large Catalan country home) are also possible party locations. 

The Food

 
Catalan Moms making a delicious Pa Amb Tomaquet at a birthday party | 2011

As I mentioned in the "time" section, if the birthday party is going to extend over the time of la comida, you can expect to have more hearty tapas or finger type foods, like pizza. I have been to birthday parties where all the children sit down and eat their lunch together before having cake. During other times of the day, you can bet that there will be Spanish tortillas, jamon and pa amb tomaquet. You will probably find some trays full of sandwiches filled with chorizo, jamon dulce or cheese (but never mixed together) and for those with a sweet-tooth, nutella. And like most parties in the USA, you can find bowls of nuts and potato chips too. At some point bottles of cava will be passed around for a toast (for the adults). Coffee is a must, especially since the party may last at least 5 hours. If the party is at the park, coffee will be brought in a thermos and served in small plastic espresso cups, complete with small plastic spoons.

Catalan kids also do sack races like USA kids | 2010

So, this turned out to be a truly LONG post and there is still more I could write about Catalan children's birthday parties. Overall, I have found birthday parties here to not be the competitive parenting sport they can be in the USA. But this could also be a result of my kids attending a Waldorf school and most of our Catalan friends originating from that circle. If you have been to a child's birthday party in Spain what was your experience? Have you ever attended a children's party in a foreign country or with a different cultural origins? Write a comment and share your experience. 

 ** For local expats, I will do a follow-up post with links to the locations where I buy my party and cake decorating supplies in Barcelona and Madrid. **

Catalan Customs: Giving a Proper Toast

My Parents giving a Catalan toast at Catalan restaurant | 2010

Around the globe, friends and strangers often raise their glasses to share a toast. Whether it be a simple "cheers" or a more involved quote, toasts are often used to celebrate the good and swear away the bad. But I bet it is rare that a toast urges you to "poop strongly". 

Unless of course, you are in Catalunya. The Catalans apparently do not have any hang-ups about poop (have you read my posts on El Caganer or Caga Tió yet?) 

As you raise your glasses in Barcelona or the Costa Brava, don't be surprised when you hear, "menja bé, caga fort i no tinguis por a la mort!" Translated into English as, "eat well, poop strongly and do not be afraid of death." But perhaps, somethings just don't translate!

If you are feeling a bit timid, your Catalan friends will still appreciate hearing "salut," (English = "to health") as you toast together. 

This post is part of the Lonely Planet Blog Carnival on global toasting customs that I hosted. The previous carnival was about volunteering while traveling, hosted by See Simi Travel. The next carnival will be hosted by Vagobond. 

Lonely Planet Blogsherpas: Toasting Around The Globe

Welcome to the 18th blog carnival of the Lonely Planet bloggers from the Blogsherpa program. A few of us will discuss toasting customs we have experienced around the world. See Simi Travel hosted the previous carnival focusing on travel that includes a volunteer purpose. Our next blog carnival will be hosted by Vagobond. 

Gather a group of people together to share a drink and glasses are bound to be raised in a toast sooner or later. How that toast is made or what beverage is used in the toast can be strongly dictated by local customs and traditions. From saying the right phrase or glancing in the right direction, a shared toast can shed light on a culture's personality and even perhaps, provide a good laugh. Cheers! 

 

French Toasts by Emilio Labrador | Inside the Travel Lab

After living in France, Abigail King of Inside the Travel Lab gives us this advice, "Don’t drink in France unless you’re willing to risk your future." Wait a minute... Can she be serious? When you read the French belief for an ill-performed toast, you will take her seriously. If you can't bear the thought of being in France and not sampling any of those fabulous French wines, skip on over to Inside the Travel Lab to learn how to raise your glass the French way and avoid a most serious penalty. 

Mate de Coca | Alpaca Suitcase

Alpaca Suitcase shares with us his experience of two important Peruvian beverages made of unexpected ingredients. One beverage, ChiCha, can be shared with locals at festivals or when you find a certain type of symbolic flag near a house's front door. If you plan to visit Peru, you will definitely want to find out about what he calls, the Red Bull of the Andes. And don't forget to make the appropriate offering to Pachamama first. Check out Alpaca Suitcase to learn more about these drinks, where to find them and how to make your offering to Pachamama. 

A proper teapot | Quillcards

Fancy a cuppa? Sounds simple enough. Think again. Tea, as Quillcards demonstrates, is an often shared beverage heavy with tradition and nuanced customs. High tea, low tea, full tea, cream tea. Quillcards shares with us all the details on what to expect and the interesting history of tea. 

Finally, Orange Polka Dot, will share a Catalan toast that you are sure to never hear at a proper tea - high or low! 

How do you raise a glass in your country? Heard any interesting phrases while toasting with the locals during your travels? We would love to hear about it!

Spanish Traditions: New Year's Eve

 
Red Panties for Sale in Sant Cugat | 2009

Dinner plans. Check. Cava. Check. Red panties and twelve grapes. Check. 

Red underwear and grapes? Just what kind of New Year's Eve celebration is this? Nothing naughty, just the typical preparations a Spaniard makes for New Year's Eve. 

For the past week, all the lingerie shops and underwear market stalls have displayed red underwear in preparation for a Spanish New Year's Eve tradition. With supposed roots in the medieval taboo of wearing red, Spanish continue to wear red panties on New Year's Eve as a symbol of life during winter. Really, what better symbolizes life than red undies? Well, at least it can symbolize its beginnings! And based by the amount of red underwear, from thongs and bikinis to granny briefs, I'd say that many Spanish women take part in this fun tradition. 

Martha Stewart's Las Uvas de La Suerte 

Another fun Spanish New Year's Eve tradition is Las Uvas de La Suerte, the grapes of good luck.  At the stroke of midnight, one must eat a grape for each chime of the bell. Each grape equals one month of good luck in the new year. It sounds a lot easier than it is in reality. Those chimes come fast. Last year, I was barely able to eat all twelve grapes. My year went fairly well, except for a little stress at the end of the year. Damn that half eaten twelfth grape. This year, I bought smaller grapes!

Happy New Year! ¡Bon Any Nou! ¡Feliz Año Nuevo!

• My 2009 post on New Year's Eve Traditions 

Catalan Traditions: Mushroom Hunting

 
My son, the disappointed mushroom hunter | Montseny 2010 

A few weekends we participated in an autumn Catalan tradition - mushroom hunting. Or as my son called it, "boleting." Bolet is the general name for mushrooms in Catalan. Catalans love bolets. Mushroom hunting is a national pastime for many families. An early morning, weekend activity enjoyed through the generations in Catalunya. 

Proof that mushroom hunting is a hugely popular Catalan custom - the Generalitat de Catalunya has a very informative section on their website dedicated to mushroom season. Here you will find information on edible and toxic mushrooms, what to do in a mushroom poisoning emergency and how to properly gather a mushroom. Even precautions to take to avoid becoming a lost mushroom gatherer who costs the Catalan government 2200 Euros to rescue. 

A mushroom find; not sure what type. | Montseny 2010

A great example of the Catalan mushroom gathering spirit is my gardener, Francisco. A master mushroom hunter. He belongs to at least one of the three Catalan mycological societies. Last year he won a prestigious prize for collecting 100 mushrooms of different varieties - all edible. Most Catalans wake up early on the weekend morning and drive to forests with baskets in tow to collect mushrooms. Francisco and his wife prefer to drive up the night before, sleep in their RV and get up at daybreak to begin their mushroom search.

My kind of mushroom hunting | Montseny 2010

We weren't so industrious. By the time we reached Montseny, a beautiful natural park about an hour and a half drive from Barcelona, the trailhead parking lots were packed and the sides of the road lined with cars. The forests were full of people walking head down, basket in one hand and a stick in the other. They gently poke and sweep through the bed of leaves on the forest floor in search of mushrooms. 

Totally unaware of the difference between a delicious dinner and an early trip to the grave, we stuck with mushroom searching and left the picking to the experts. We found a few interesting mushrooms. Even with our two Catalan mushroom guides (my son loves to look at pictures of bollets), I still don't know what we found. 

Fortunately for us novices, there are a ton of restaurants in Montseny that advertise "Hay Bollets" ("we have bollets.") immediately as you walk in the door. If you can't make it to the forest for freshly picked mushrooms, produce vendors at local mercats, like La Boqueria in Barcelona or even supermarkets have seasonal, local mushrooms, except that you will have to pay. I have a feeling many Catalans also enjoy the idea of a free meal just a drive and a few leaf coverings away. In the Montseny park guide, you are warned to only gather enough mushrooms or chestnuts (another popular Catalan gathering tradition) or else you are infringing on others' economic livelihoods. 

:: More Information ::

• Generalitat de Catalunya Mushroom Season Guide
• Societat Catalana de Micològia: A catalan mycological society. 
• Associació Micològia Joaquim Codina: A catalan mycological society. 
• Associació Micològia Font i Quer: A catalan mycological society. 
• Bolets: An informative website and facebook page about mushrooms in Catalunya. 

 

This post was part of the Lonely Planet Blogsherpa's Blog Carnival on global customs hosted by La Tortuga Viajera. The previous blog carnival on memorable city experiences was hosted by Travels with Den Den. The Turkish Life will host the following blog carnival.

Restaurants in Spain: Dining at El Bulli

 
Me and Diego with Ferran Adrià  | 16 October 2010

"Be careful, it's delicate." "Smell the sachet first, and in two courses you will eat what is inside." "Two bites only."

A few of the instructions we were given while eating our 39 course meal at EL BULLI! I still have a huge smile on my face as I type it. My dream came true. After all, it was one of the top five reasons I was willing to move to Spain - the chance to be closer to dining at El Bulli. When I reported on its pending two-year closing, I thought it would never happen. I feel so lucky to have the opportunity to eat at El Bulli.

Eating at El Bulli is no where near the right description for what someone does at El Bulli. Eating at El Bulli is a full body sensory experience. The smell, the texture, the color, the presentation, the service, the ambience. Every little detail is crafted and perfected. I am sure you have heard all the hype. And it is true. And it is worth it. Every little euro. 

Main Kitchen Area  | 16 October 2010

Entering the kitchen was a highlight. I was dying to put on an apron and walk over to one of the 70 chefs (!!!!) and watch closely as they prepared the "molecular gastronomy" we were about to experience. Instead, we were whisked over to meet Ferran Adrià, the man behind El Bulli and one of the world's best chefs. 

Pastry station  | 16 October 2010

The ambiance and decor of El Bulli really surprised me. I imagined a super sleek, ultra modern glass and steel restaurant. Instead, walking to our table for two, we found ourselves sitting in a pretty traditional Catalan-style restaurant. Heavy wood furniture, lots of artwork and upholstered chairs - often mismatched. Turns out, the decor is all original (probably minus the artwork) of the restaurant prior to El Bulli. 

Our Table  | 16 October 2010

Two to three waiterstaff served us throughout the evening. It is amazing to watch the orchestration of the superb staff. Plates were whisked away at the perfect moment. Somehow they can tell the difference between, I am not enjoying this course and a long pause in-between bites without ever asking you a single word. At the beginning of each course, they would introduce the course and give us very specific instructions as to the proper way to eat the course.

As soon as we sat down they brought us two glasses of Jaume de Codorniu Brut Gran Reserva while we browsed the wine list (ahem, book). Selecting a well paired wine for a menu of 39 courses when you have no clue what the courses will be is quite daunting. We went with a Grand Cru Alsace Riesling from 1998 (Cuvée Sainte Catherine Schlossberg L'Inédit, Domaine Weinbach-Colette) and were quite pleased with our choice. 

Check out the size of the wine list!  | 16 October 2010

On to the long-awaited 39 courses. Unfortunately, I didn't take pictures of each course. The courses come at a quick pace and often have to be eaten quickly before their texture changes. And, whipping out a camera 39 times just ruins the magic of it all. 

We started with three "cocktails." First, was a Strawberry Campari, which was a delightful way to kick off the meal. It was a frozen, strawberry shape that when you popped it in your mouth tasted like Campari. Next, we drank Warm Caipirinhas; a great way to warm up on a cold night. The cocktail was made as an infusion in a Bodum French Coffee Press and poured into glasses. Our final cocktail was an Almond-Fizz with Amaerna-LYO, the most traditional of all the cocktails, but with more of a foam/cream texture and a frozen berry similar to the Strawberry Campari. 

Gorgonzola Globe  | 16 October 2010

After the cocktails, we moved into some starters that were so much fun. I loved the Nori Seaweed with Lemon - paper thin empanadas filled with a bit of lemon. The salty, crunchy nori provided a tasty contrast to the tart lemon. While the Gorgonzola Globe is gastronomic theatre at its best, I couldn't take more than a few bites, it was so much for two people. The waiter brought a cream-colored sphere to the table, cracked it at the top and then topped it with freshly grated nutmeg as he told us to eat it quickly because it is gorgonzola ice cream. Next, we had an Aperitive Ice Cream, which was a little foamish, crunchy cone with a aperitif sorbet inside. The Parmesan "Porra"  was a flavorful bread stick. Next, we were told to eat our Hazelnut-Raspberries in one bite, lest, these frozen fusions would instantly melt. 

One version of the shrimp tortilla/ omelet  | 16 October 2010

I really loved the "compare and contrast" Shrimp Tortillas. A twist of the traditional Spanish tortilla served in two surprising approaches. One shrimp tortilla, which I don't have a picture of, but LuxEat has one, was a powdery-foam texture that melted in your mouth with the slightly sweet flavor of an egg tortilla and a sprinkling of dried shrimp. The other shrimp tortilla, pictured above, had a thin, crunchy egg tortilla base with the tiniest fresh shrimp I have ever seen. This tortilla contrasted with the first with its saltier taste and crunchier texture. The Coconut Sponge-Cake was an airy foam of two bites filled with the flavor of fresh coconut (scroll down on the Critical Couple's blog for a picture). One of my favorite courses, and of course, no picture (but check LuxEat, picture 14), was the Ham and Ginger Canapée. The translucent ginger shaving served with ham was out of this world. 

Shrimp Two Firings  | 16 October 2010

We had another two shrimp dishes to compare and contrast... Boiled Shrimp and Shrimp Two Firings. Our waiter directed us to "suck the head, eat the tail," as he presented the simple boiled shrimp. Normally, I am not into sucking shrimp brains, but when you are eating at El Bulli, you do as your are ordered, and I am glad I tried it. I fell in love with Shrimp Two Firings. First, we drank the soup made from the shrimp head (I am guessing) and then ate the lightly grilled shrimp. I loved how the two dishes portrayed very different approaches to eating a shrimp and thoroughly experiencing the flavor of the shrimp. 

Quails with Carrot "Escabeche"  | 16 October 2010

Quails with Carrot "Escabeche" consisted of four quail breasts that were painted with a carrot sauce at the table. Fortunately, after we ate the course, the waitress told us that the breasts were from four-day-old quails. So, that is why the quail breasts were so tiny! The course of Tomato Tartar was one of the best tomato dishes I have ever eaten (check A Life Worth Eating for a picture). Tomato was finely diced and topped with thin ice shavings. Our next course we were told was a Tiramisu, without any further information. I wonder if this was done purposely to juxtapose the flavors of what we would be eating with our mental image of tiramisu. The two had nothing to do with each other. 

Caviar Cream with Hazelnut Caviar  | 16 October 2010

The Caviar Cream with Hazelnut Caviar was another study in contrasts. My picture was taken after a few bites, so the color contrast is not so obvious. The grey sauce is a caviar sauce topped with hazelnut caviar. While the brown sauce is a hazelnut sauce topped with real caviar. I really loved this course, especially the real caviar with the hazelnut sauce. After a few bites, I found the hazelnut caviar a bit rich for my taste. 

Cold/Warm "Oronja" Mushroom  | 16 October 2010

Mushroom season is huge in Catalunya and we were delighted to have a course of mushrooms with the Cold/Warm "Oronja Mushroom. The dishes were essentially the same, except that one was served cold and the other warm. We preferred the warm dish. For the following course, the Truffle "Drap," we were instructed to open a cloth package and smell the aroma of the truffles, but to not eat the truffles. Next came a Parmesan "Macaron," which had the shape of a macaron but was more of a soft, creamy foam. When the next course was brought to the table, Truffled Blini, we were told to place the truffles from the "drap" on top of the blini. Delicious! 

Cold Sea Anemone with Bernacles  | 16 October 2010

The Cold Sea Anemone with Bernacles or Scallop with Anemone Risotto were not my favorite dishes, but that is probably due to my inexperience or timidness with shellfish and seafood. I did however enjoy the Oysters Guillardeau with Black Sand and Bone Marrow. 

Roses/Artichokes | 16 October 2010

The course in the picture above, Roses/Artichokes was fascinating. The outer circles are real, edible rose petals. The inner circle are artichoke leaves and a dash of silver. A sensory delight. 

Lulo "ceviche" and Oaxaca "Taco"  | 16 October 2010

As a huge fan of Mexican cuisine, I loved Ferran Adrià's take on the taco and ceviche with the Lulo Ceviche and Oaxaca Taco. The taco was a thin, powdery tortilla with thinly sliced contents of avocado and grapefruit. 

Endive in Papillote 50%  | 16 October 2010

The Endive in Papillote 50% course was theatrically presented with the waiter unwrapping the papillote carefully with tweezers. The endives were topped with olive oil caviar. 

Gazpacho and Ajo Blanco  | 16 October 2010

I loved the gazpacho portion of the Gazpacho and Ajo Blanco course, but found the ajo blanco a tad too strong and creamy for my taste. In the picture above, the gazpacho is the white snow-like inside part, and the ajo blanco is the creamier sauce on the outside. I had to laugh a little when I heard the man of obnoxious couple dining nearby say, "gazpacho, what the heck is that!" This course was followed by Turtledove with Blackberries Risotto with Cardamon with perfect fall flavors. I don't really remember the Hare Raviolli with "Bolonesa" and Blood.

Mimetic Chestnuts  | 16 October 2010

The Mimetic Chestnuts was pure fantasy. Faux chestnuts that appeared to be floating on top of the protective layer of a real chestnut. Amazing, delightful and delicious. 

Wild Strawberries with Hare Soup  | 16 October 2010

A flavor combination that is totally unexpected, but totally works Wild Strawberries with Hare Soup. 

Sugar Cube with Tea and Lime  | 16 October 2010

From there, we moved onto the palate cleansing and then dessert portion of the meal. This, along with the beginning cocktail section were my favorites. Our waitress delivered a wooden box to our table, Sugar Cube with Tea and Lime. Inside, we found frozen, lime-flavored sugar cubes that we drizzled with a tea oil. Fabulous!

Mojito and Apple Flute  | 16 October 2010

Catalans love to eat sandwiches called "flautas," (flute in English) that are little baguette breads filled with jamon or cheese. I love how Ferran Adrià gave a Catalan mainstay a cocktail twist - the Mojito and Apple Flute. The "bread" was a light foarm with apple flavor. The inside of the sandwich was an icy, blended mojito. I could eat many of these! This was one of my favorite courses!

Mini-Donuts  | 16 October 2010

Not your typical donuts. These Mini-Donuts were bitter, dark chocolate filled with a maiz paste. Can you see a South American/ Mexican theme running throughout?

"Coca de Vidre" - Crystal Cake  | 16 October 2010

Another twist on a typical Catalan specialty - Coca Vidre. The traditional coca vidre is an extremely thin flatbread dusted with sugar and pine nuts (here is a recipe). Ferran Adrià's coca vidre was a crunchy, glass-like hard sugar with pine nuts that tasted exactly like a traditional coca vidre. Loved it!

Gold Leaves  | 16 October 2010

Not your typical cup of espresso. Gold Leaves was a small bowl filled with espresso, a dusting of cocoa powder, gold leaves and mint leaves. Fantastic!

The Box  | 16 October 2010

The grand finale, the 39th course... the Box. An amazing array of handmade chocolates and confections in a huge box. The box is placed upon your table and you can nibble away. Ferran Adrià put heaven in a box! The woman pair of the obnoxious dining guests near us, loudly asked for a "to go box." As the waiter was packaging a few chocolates for the road for her, she loudly told the waiter, "oh don't worry about packaging them, I flew on my own plane." This, by the woman when chatting with me in the bathroom replied, "Yes. I have a show," when I asked if she was from the United States. 

So, there you have it... my 39 courses at El Bulli. It is really hard to put into words how dining at El Bulli feels. You experience it on so many different levels. It is like a fusion between a haute cuisine restaurant, a science lab and an art gallery. Ferran Adrià's is pure genius. With each course, you are delighted, amazed, bewildered, surprised and even perplexed. When dining at El Bulli you are able to decipher flavors, question assumptions and experience new possibilities. I am so thankful for the opportunity to go to El Bulli. 

Lonely Planet Blogsherpas: Jamon in Spain

My kids examining a wall of jamon in the supermarket | 2009

I rounded the corner in search of orange juice and yogurt. First I was overcome by an aroma that I had never smelled before. Immediately, my children pinched their noses and "ewwwwwed" loudly. "Mommy, What is that weird smell?" We walked a bit more. "Mommy, are those animal legs hanging on the wall?" Why, yes, that distinctive smell was Spanish jamon sold as close to its original form as I have ever seen. I could add this to the list of things I'd never see in my local Safeway in California. Entire legs, hoof and all, of a cured pig's leg. And darn, is it tasty!

An entire book could be written about the subject of jamon. Here are the basics that I learned by asking lots of questions at my local jamon shop. Jamon is a widely popular Spanish cured ham. Actually, widely popular is an understatement. It is a daily ritual for many in Spain. The whole pig's leg is cured by a layer of sea salt and hanged in a factory with windows open to catch the mountain breeze for one to four years. When jamon is served at room temperature and thinly-sliced, it nearly melts in your mouth. 

 
Jamon shop in Sant Cugat | 2009 

Fortunately, for those of us addicted to jamon iberico, it contains a high percentage of oleic acid with low levels of saturated fat and cholesterol, depending on acorn consumption, pig's exercise and curing length. During the curing process, the leg of jamon loses 20 to 40 percent of its weight. In bellota jamon, the remaining fat is converted into mono-unsaturated fat, thanks to the acorns and pig's free range lifestyle. 

Perhaps you have heard of Pata Negra or Jamon Serrano. Pata Negra is the same as Jamon Iberico. Interestingly, in the United States, foodies talk about the exclusivity of Pata Negra, which wasn't allowed to be imported until 2009 and then faced "hoof" problems. Here however, I have yet to hear a local mention Pata Negra opting to use Iberico instead. 

 
My daughter snacking on free cone of jamon at local shop. | 2010

Jamon Iberico de Bellota / Pata Negra Bellota

• The holy grail of jamon. 
• Only made from Iberico pigs, which are black (hence the black hoof) and fatter than the pink pig stereotype. Genetically, these pigs have an ability to store fat in their muscles, giving excellent marbling and flavor. 
• At about 10 months, pigs destined to be Jamon Iberico de Bellota are raised free-range in an area called the dehesa near the Spanish - Portuguese border. During this period, montanera, the pigs gain about half of their body weight. 
• In the dehesa, the pigs feast on acorns (bellotas) and wild planets. Each pig can eat around ten kilos of acorns a day!
• More fat allows the meat to be cured longer than other jamon types. Jamon Iberico de Bellota is cured for more than two years, typically three and less than four years. 
• Bellota jamon costs at least twice as much as jamon iberico. 
• Very high in mono-unsaturated fat.

Jamon Iberico / Pata Negra

• Made from Iberico pigs, which are black and fatter than the standard pink pig. 
• Mono-unsaturated fat is not as high as bellota jamon because of the smaller acorn diet. 
• Different grades depending on the pigs' exercise and diet. Recebo grade pigs spend less time in their montanera, gaining less than half of their body weight. Recebo pigs are then fattened before market using cereal feed. Cebo grade is Iberico pigs raised on cereal feed. Iberico grade pigs are usually cereal fed and completely raised on farms without the lovely montanera holiday. 

Jamon Serrano

• Jamon Serrano translates in English as "mountain ham." Historically, jamon was cured in mountain areas with hot, dry summers and cold winters. 
• Nowdays, Jamon Serrano is produced throughout Spain, using climate-controlled factories. Although some is still made in mountain towns. 
• Jamon Serranno comes from the leaner white pigs, who store fat outside the muscle unlike Iberico pigs. 
• Jamon Serrano is typically cured for one year.
• Serrano has a more salty flavor. 
• Jamon Serrano is much cheaper than Jamon Iberico, usually half the price. 

Jamoneras to hold jamon leg in your kitchen | 2009

A whole jamon leg can be quite an investment. I have seen prices range from 50 euros to 850 euros. Many Spanish companies give a leg of jamon as an employee Christmas gift. Asking around, it seems one leg lasts about three months. The leg is stored on a jamonera and covered with a cloth. I know if we had a jamon leg in our kitchen, our amount of midnight snacking would drastically increase. A little slice of iberico here and there would be too much to resist. 

Most restaurants that sell plates of jamon have a professional jamon cutter, a cortador. Cutting jamon properly is serious business, usually done with a long, extremely sharp knife. One of the cortadores in my local shop gave me a very thorough explanation on the subetlies of machine versus knife cutting. If you didn't know he was talking jamon, you'd think he was reading poetry or perhaps he was dreaming about playing a jamon violin? 

Christmas promotion at a Catalan bank | 2009

You can get your jamon fix from my affiliate partner (I will get a commission if you do) La Tienda, a gourmet Spanish importer with a fabulous online shop. 

This blog on food around the world is part of the Lonely Planet Blogsherpa's blog carnival hosted by Tie Dye Travels, which will go live on 8 October 2010. The previous carnival was hosted by Sophie's World on the Lonely Planet blogger's favorite places. Look forward to the next "spooky story" carnival hosted by Hello, Pineapple? on 22 October 2010.