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Barcelona Festivals: Fira de Santa Llúcia 2011

Barcelona's largest outdoor Christmas Market, Fira de Santa Llúcia, celebrates its 225th anniversary this year. The one-stop market for all your Christmas decorations and trees, located in the front of the Barcelona's Cathedral, runs from 26 November to 22 December 2011. 

Christmas Wreath Stall | 2010

Market Stall at Barcelona's Christmas Market | 2010

At the market, you will find the usual holiday greenery, lights and trees. If you haven't heard about Catalunya's poop-related traditions (yes, I said "poop."), you have a few interesting discoveries awaiting your Christmas market browse. You may be surprised to find little statues squatting with a little pile of poop under their tush. Or how about some logs with painted faces wearing hats and blankets. Caganers and Caga Tió are a favorite tradition of locals and make great souvenirs for the folks back home. 

Caganer Stall | 2009

Catalans take their nativity scene decoations very seriously. Here it is called the pessebre and often expands into an entire miniature village depicting very detailed nativity-scenes. At the Fira de Santa Llúcia you can find a section of stalls dedicated to miniature figurines, animals, houses and every accessory you can imagine for your own pessebre. A great stop for dollhouse fanatics. 

Pessebre on Front Porch of a home in Palls | 2011

And if you are really lucky on your visit to Barcelona's Christmas market, maybe you will run into a giant head spitting candy as he roams the aisles followed by Catalan musicians and merrymakers. 

Candy-Spitting Gegant | 2009

:: More Information :: 

Complete Fira de Santa Llucia Christmas Market Information

Transportation and Location Information

All About Catalan Christmas Tradtions

 

Barcelona Festivals: La Mercè 2011

Barcelona's "festival of all festivals" La Mercè, celebrating the city's patron saint began on 22 September 2011 and ends on 25 September 2011. La Merce is the pinacle of all Barcelona's festivals offering four days of free activities - free museum entry, music in plazas throughout the city, parades, dances, community meals, games, workshops, beachside firework displays and circus perfomances. And it wouldn't be the bigest Catalan festa major without the human towers and people running through the streets with fireworks. 

There are so many events and parties it would be impossible to list everything here. I tried to focus on events that showcase Catalan traditions, such as the human towers and fire-runs, and that are family-friendly.

:: Event Highlights::

Free Entry to Museums: Throughout La Mercè many museums open their doors for free as part of the celebration. Most of the museum offer special events and workshops during the festival - many that are kid-focused. Each museum operates different schedules for "free" days - some are free on several days, others only one day. Check with the official La Mercè schedule for the details of each museum. Below are the museums that I feel are the most interesting for families with children. 

• Cosmo Caixa - Hands-On Science Museum, CaixaForum - Art Museum, Museu Picasso, Museu Marítim, MACBA - Contemporary Art, CCCB - Contemporary Art,  MNAC - National Art Museum, Museum of the History of Barcelona, Music Museum, Barbier-Mueller Museum, Museu Blau - Natural History and Science Museum, Museum of the History of Catalunya, Monestir del Pedrables - Original Monastery, Olympic and Sport Museum, Fundació Joan Miró, and Labyrinth Park.

Catalan Gegants | BCN.cat

La Mercè Parade / Cavalcada: Kids will love this parade featuring performers, music and the customary Catalan "gegants," ginormous puppets who represent Catalan icons. Kids in Barcelona has the parade route directions in English. The blue line on this map is the parade route. Saturday, 24 September 2011 at 18:00.

Beach Fireworks | Juan Jose Delgado Palacios, La Merce Photostream

Firework Displays at the Beach: Each year different countries showcase a firework perfomance at the Barceloneta beaches. The fireworks typically begin at 10:30 pm, check this link. 

Montjuic Castle Grand Circus: From 11 to 19:00 each day throughout La Mercè circus festivities are held at the Montjuic Castle.  

Correfoc | Perfect Travel Blog

Correfoc: A serious Catalan tradition where diablo-costumed Catalans run through the streets with various firework and flame-throwing contraptions, such as fire-spitting dragon. For children, or the more faint, there is a infantil correfoc that begings at 18:30 on Sunday, 25 September 2011 on Carrer de Joan Massana passing through Via Laietana ending at Plaça Antoni Maura (black line on this map). The adult correfoc begins later at 20:30, also starting Carrer de Joan Massana, passing through Via Laietana, continuing onto Plaça Antonio Lopex i Consolat de Mar (dark red line on this map). Spectators should definitely wear long sleeves and hats. Children should not attend the adult correfoc and young children may even be spooked by the infantil correfoc. 

Castellers | 2010

Castellers: Another Catalan tradtion - building extemely high human towers in which a helmeted kid climbs to the top while the tower wavers with the shaking arms of muscled Catalan men and women. It really is an amazing, hold-your-breath type of moment. Castellers will be competing in Plaça Sant Jauma on Sunday, 25 September 2011 starting at 12 noon. 

:: More Information :: 

• Official La Mercè Information: All the information for the festival in English, Spanish and Catalan.
• Offical La Mercè Program La Mercè: Available in English, Spanish and Catalan
• La Mercè Map: Parade routes, event locations and information in Google Maps
• La Mercè Places: Events by Neighborhood
• FotoMercè Flikr Photostream

 

 

 

Catalan Festivals: Sant Joan 2011

It is official Summer has arrived in Catalunya. Not because Summer Solstice was on the 21st of June. But rather, because tonight is the eve of Sant Joan. Otherwise known as La Revetlla. For the past few nights, we have heard the popping of firecrackers in anticipation of the loud celebration that will fill the night air until sunrise across Catalunya. 

Many people will gather on the beach to light bonfires, watch firework displays over the Mediterranean, drink cava and eat cocas. Since we will have the kids and mi suegra (mother-in-law) in tow, we will be checking out the festivities in Sant Cugat. There is a parade of the arrival of the La Flama del Canigó, which will light bonfires throughout Catalunya. And without a doubt, we get a big dose of the Catalan festival usual suspects - sardaners, bastoners, diablos and castellers. Later, we will watch the fireworks from our terrace while sipping Codorniu cava and nibbling cocas. You can read one of my older blog posts to see how we celebrated Sant Joan a few years ago. 

Traditional Catalan Cocas, Frutas and Llardons

The celebration of Sant Joan is full of symbolic meanings related to herbs, water and fire. Skinny dipping along the bonfire-lit beaches isn't just a bit of racy fun, it is healthy. On the night of Sant Joan, water is believed to have strong curative powers. "Bany de Sant Joan, salut per tot l'any" (Catalan translation: Bathe on Sant Joan and have health for the whole year.) Some may gather herbs (no, not those kind - more likely verbena, thyme, rosemary and Sant John) for treatments as their medicinal properties is believed to be 100 times stronger on this night. "Les herbes de Sant Joan tenen virtut tot l'any" (Catalan translation: The herbs of Sant Joan retain their virtues all year round.) Bonfires and firecrackers are lit to purify and cleanse oneself of misfortune. "Qui encén foc per Sant Joan no es crema en tot l'any" (Catalan translation: He who lights the fire for Sant Joan will not burn all year round.)

More Information About Sant Joan and Activities in Barcelona:

• Barcelona Sant Joan Activities (English) 
• Recipes for Traditional Sant Joan Cocas
• More About Sant Joan

 

Barcelona Festivals: Fira de Santa Llúcia 2010

Barcelona's open air Christmas Market, Fira de Santa Llúcia, will be open for one more week. Regardless whether you celebrate Christmas, a trip to Barcelona's Christmas market is a must for holiday visitors. Until 23 December 2010, the Fira de Santa Llúcia takes place in front of Barcelona's Cathedral from 10 am to 8:30 pm (9:30 pm on the weekends/holidays). 

Where else can you find rows and rows of famous celebrities, athletes and politicians squatting with their pants down? Meet el Caganer, definitely one of the best and most interesting Catalan traditions. 

Caganer Stall | 2009

Your children can participate in hitting a big log, the beloved Caga Tió, while chanting for the log to poop chocolates and turrón. Sardines, no gracias. 

Caga Tió at Fira Santa Llúcia | 2009

And well, if pooping Christmas traditions are not your style, you can browse the many booths selling various miniature decorations for your life-like nativity scene. Decorating pessebres is a big Catalan tradition. And people go all out. Nothing like the mossy wood manager I grew up with placed near the fireplace. These scenes include the manager with key characters and every miniature you can imagine for a biblical village. And some items that I am not sure existed in Mary and Joseph's time - a jamonera? And these pessebres are not laid out willy nilly. Important scenes related to Jesus' birth are carefully depicted by the strategic placement of figurines. 

Tree bark and sand for pessebre decoration | 2009

 

:: More Information :: 

• Barcelona's Christmas Market Location: Av. de la Catedral and Av. de Francesc Cambó.
• Complete holiday event listings by the Barcelona Ajuntament (city council)
• My 2009 post on Fira de Santa LLúcia, which provides more information on the history of the market. 

 

Barcelona Festivals: Festa Major de Gràcia 2010

 

Gràcia's festa major begins next week and I couldn't be happier. The Festa Major de Gràcia is my absolute favorite of all the local festa majors and probably my favorite event in Barcelona! In addition to the regulars at a Catalan festa major, Gràcia's festa involves a level of community participation that is unparalleled. C'mon, you remember the Catalan festa major regulars, right - diablos during a correfoc fire run, castellers and gegants. 

The neighbors on various streets throughout Gràcia work together all year to prepare for their street decoration competition. Each of the streets has a theme and involves some serious decorating. Most of the decorating items are recycled and repurposed materials. One of our good friends lived on Carrer de Verdi, a major street in Gràcia. All year long they saved plastic bottles and newspapers along with their neighbors to transform their street into medieval passageway. I don't know what is more impressive - the decorations or the neighbors working so hard to make it happen. 

Repurposed "mice" | 2009

The best time to see street decorations is in the early evening. You will beat the crowds and have an opportunity to take pictures of the decorations. If you are taking kids, which I highly recommend, go during the day or early evening. There are many activities for families and children as well. Last year, in one of the plazas we watched a performance by a children's theatre group. Many streets have child friendly activities, be sure to check online or download the PDF below. 

Medieval Times on Carrer Verdi | 2009 

A good time to schedule a visit to the festa is during one of the gastronomic events. A different region is featured each day with events throughout the day revolving around the taste of that region. Each street usually has an outdoor bar serving beer, wine, soft drinks, water and some snacks regardless of the gastronomic event schedule. 

If you are without kids and not so interested in the photo op, night time is the right time. In addition to the street-side bars, many of the streets have stages for bands that play into the wee hours. There are different streets and plazas for different types of music such as swing and folk. Check the PDF link below for all the music events.  

Alice in Wonderland on Carrer Bruniquer | Photo by; Festa Major de Gracia Organization

:: Event Highlights :: 

There are so, so many more events than I can even begin to list here. Heck, the program guide is 64 pages long. Yes, 64 pages of mostly free events and activities. Here are some interesting ones you may wish to add to your list. 

• Children's Workshops, called Tallers Infantil in Catalan, occur throughout festa.
• Children's Performances, nearly every day you can watch a free theatre performance with your children.
• Children's Games, called Jocs Infantil in Catalan, occur throughout the festa. 
• 15 August @ 1 pm: Cargol Gastronomic Competition, a snail cookoff, snails are a Catalan tradition.
• 20 August all day: Tast de Catalunya, more Catalan cuisine; check agenda for specific events.
• 21 August @ 6:30 pm: Correfoc Infantil, a child appropriate fire run begins at Plaça del Nord. 
• 21 August @ 10 pm: Correfoc, fire run advisable for adults only & wear protective clothing, begins at Plaça Trilla.
• 22 August @ 12 noon: Diada Castellera de Festa Major, the main event for human tower building at Plaça de la Vila. 

Whimsical Recycled Decorations on Carrer Joan Blanques | Photo by: Festa Major de Gracia Organization

:: More Information :: 

• Information Booths during the Festa: 

Carrer Igualada, 10; open from 10 to 1 am
Plaça Revolució; open from 10 to 2 pm

• Official Site
• Map
• List of Decorated Streets
• Activity Agenda
• PDF Festival Guide
• Orange Polka Dot post on 2009 Festa Major de Gràcia. 

What is a Festa Major?

 

A few days ago, the nearby town, Sant Cugat, held its Festa Major. The usual castellers, gegants, folk dancing and diablos all made their required appearances. As if there weren't enough other saints' days, holidays and festivals, each city in Catalunya (and probably Spain, hoping a commenter can confirm) celebrates a festa major (catalan). For some towns, the festa major honors the town's patron saint. Yes, just like names, cities have patron saints who are venerated with several days of special celebrations. For other towns the festa major is held on a date that honors a historical event or its foundation.

 
Community Meal Sant Cugat Festa Major 2010 | Sant Cugat Ajuntament

According to my children's book on Catalan traditions, the festa major began as a way to celebrate the end of the agricultural season. A festa major is an opportunity for the community to gather, to participate, to relax and to celebrate a shared heritage. I love that there is little to do with commerce. Growing up in California, I loved going to art and wine festivals with my parents. But it seems that buying (whether it is expensive festival food or artisan wares) is the main focus of many festivals back home. The Sant Cugat festa major did have one evening of sidewalk sales. But buying is hardly the focus of 99% of the activities. The focus truly is about community gathering. 

Decorated Street at Gracia's Festa Major 2009 

Gracia's Festa Major is perhaps the best example of this spirit. Throughout the year, different neighborhoods throughout Gracia plan and collect recycled supplies to decorate their street for a competition with the other streets. 

A festa major usually lasts about three days and typically one of the days is an official holiday (no work or school). Yes, one day is not enough. When festivals are a regular occurrence, the festa major has got to be a big deal. And a big deal it is. I am always impressed with the organization it takes to put on a festa major. Events are held at different locations throughout the day from morning into the wee hours of the night. 

Map of Events for Sant Cugat Festa Major 2010 

 
Paella Cook-Off Sant Cugat Festa Major 2010 | Sant Cugat Ajuntament

 
 Paella Sant Cugat Festa Major 2009  

Activities for each population group (kids, seniors, teens, twentysomethings, athletes, old ladies who like to make lace, people you like to cook huge pans of paella). If you have an interest, chances are there is an activity you would enjoy. A paella cook-off, barbecues in the street, outdoor cinema, juggling workshops, community meals, water gun fights, sports tournaments, play spaces for children, a water party, outdoor music, concerts at 2 AM for joves (teens/twentsomethings)... and the list goes on and on. Finding a listing for a Taller de bricolatge sexual: construccio de boles xineses was quite a surprise. Use google translate to figure it out yourself. And, no, I didn't attend the taller (workshop). Indeed something for everyone!

Lace Making Near Sant Cugat Monastery, Sant Cugat Festa Major 2009 

If you are traveling to Spain and Catalunya, I would definitely plan your travel around attending one of the many festivals. You will get a chance to celebrate with locals, see local customs firsthand and enjoy lots of free entertainment. It would be hard to attend a festival in Spain and leave without catching the spirit of the people.

• A list of *some* of the fiestas and festivals in Spain
• A list of festes majors in Catalunya

Barcelona Events: Sonar 2010

Unofficially, Barcelona kicks off the temporada de'estiu (summer season in Catalan) with music. First, Primavera Sound and now Sonar. Officially, Barcelona celebrates the arrival of summer with fireworks, bonfires, midnight swims and correfocs (fire runs) on Sant Joan. Sonar, International Festival of Advanced Music and Multimedia Art takes place in Barcelona 17 - 19 June 2010. Last weekend was Sonar Kids - the child/teen friendly Sonar event. 

The Chemical Brothers  

There are several cool things about this annual Barcelona event. One, the groups performing - The Chemical Brothers, LCD Soundsystem, Air and a line-up that I am sure is impressive if you know more about music than I do (my husband is our house DJ). Two, you don't need to go to a big arena or pavilion. Sonar's daytime performances are held near the MACBA and CCCB in El Raval. Nighttime performances are held at a larger location not in the central part of Barcelona however (but not far away). Three, Sonar is a cultural experience beyond music. Artist showcases and cinema screenings also play a major role at Sonar. And fourth, my favorite, Sonar's advertising. 

We have been seeing these ghosts on banners and Estrella Damm beer trucks throughout the city. The ghosts are the stars of a little movie called Finisterrae and promote Sonar 2010. 

 

Many festivals and events in Barcelona focus on preserving tradition, honoring a shared cultural identity, celebrating what generations and generations have done before you. Sonar is a refreshing contrast to the traditonal, saint-related festivals. Sonar is about experimentation; where music and art are going. Celebrated in the same spot, where in a few days people will celebrate the age old festival of Sant Joan with traditional Catalan festivities. 

:: More Information ::

• Sonar 2010 Official Site 
• Sonar 2010 Tickets
• Sonar 2010 Program
• Sonar 2010 Map & Directions

Barcelona Events: Sonar Kids 2010

 

Kids and teens are not forgotten in Barcelona's musical kick-off to the summer season. Primavera Sound had Minimúsica. Sonar has Sonar Kids. On 12-13 June 2010, Sonar Kids is the place to be for hip kids and their (trying to keep their edge) parents. Sonar Kids is a music and creative experience for children/teens and their parents. Last year, we went to the first Sonar Kids in 2009 and had a blast. This year, we won't be able to make it because we'll be doing folk dances at my children's Waldorf school. (What a contrast!) 

Sonar Kids 2010 features two days packed with activities, workshops and shows centered around modern music, creativity and technology. Saturday and Sunday's schedule is exactly the same, so there are no worries if the beatbox workshop is at the same time as the Electrotoylets' performance. You can catch each on different days. Like last year, the Sonar Kids village will be at the CCCB and MACBA. 

Sonar Kids is great example of modern family leisure. Parents and children can enjoy the same music, dance and create art together. All in a space that is totally structured to the needs of families. Lots of activities cover a wide range of artistic and musical exploration. The sound is adjusted with children's sensitive ears in mind. Areas for parents to chat and have a drink while their teens dance with their friends. A chill out room with diaper changing, nursing and napping areas. Enough to make you feel OK about missing the main Sonar because you can't find a canguro (babysitter). 

 
Art Workshop | Photo: Sonar Kids 

 

:: More Information :: 

• Official Site Sonar Kids 
• Sonar Kids Tickets
• Program
• Map and Transportation Options
• Sonar 2010 (for adults)

Barcelona Events: Portugal Convida 2010

A celebration of modern Portuguese culture. Find out what is new and hip in Portuguese film, music, photography and architecture... in Barcelona. From the 7th to 12th of June 2010, thanks to the Portuguese Consulate in Barcelona and Turismo de Portugual, Barcelona will host Portugal Convida 2010. 

António Pedro Vasconcelos | Photo by: www.onoticiasdatrofa.pt

A cinema cycle highlighting the work of Portuguese director António Pedro Vasconcelos will show "Call Girl," "Os Imortais" and his recent "A Bela e o Paparazzo."  The films will be shown at Cinemes Alexandra on 7, 8, 9 and 10 of June. Tickets are only 2 euros!  

DJs Dezperados | Photo by: Joana Seixo

And of course, it wouldn't be a Portuguese cultural celebration without a little fado. On 10 June 2010, A Casa Portuguesa along with the Portuguese Consulate organized a "Gran Nit de Fado Amateur" at Centre Artesà Tradicionàrius. Tickets can be purchased at A Casa Portuguese Botiga or Razzmatazz. If fado music isn't your scene, there is a Portuguese pop music concert also on 10 June 2010 at Razzamataz. Popular Portuguese groups X-Wife and DJs Dezperados will play at this concert. 

A photography anthology exhibit, titled "Prints and Comments - Portuguese Contemporary Photography" will be shown from 8 June to 15 September 2010 at Fundació Privada Foto Colectania. Participating artists include: Patrícia Almeida, Basque Araújo, Pedro Barateiro, Calçada Rui Bastos, Catarina Botelho, Paulo Catrica, André Cepeda, Nuno Cera, Filipa César, Luisa Cunha, António Júlio Duarte, Alexandre Estrela, João Paulo Feliciano, Ramiro Guerreiro, Miguel Leal, Pedro Letria , Carlos Lobo, Adelina Lopes, Daniel Malhão, Edgar Martins, Paulo Mendes, Duarte Amaral Netto, Joao Maria Gusmão & Pedro Paiva, Luís Palma, Fernando José Pereira, Mariana Silva, António de Sousa.

 

"Overlappings: Six Studies of Portuguese Architecture," takes place at the Coŀlegi D'Arquitectes de Catalunya in Barcelona from now until 12 June 2010. This exhibit features the work of Manuel Aires Mateus, Ricardo Bak Gordon, Bugio.João Favila, Inês Lobo,  Paulo David, Ricardo Carvalho + Joana Vilhena.

 
Pedro Abrunhosa | Photo by: Portugal Convida 2010 

On Saturday, 12 June 2010, A Casa Portuguese will host a festa popular that marks the end of Portugal Convida with Pedro Abrunhosa i Comité Caviar and DJ Cap Terra at Jardinets de Salvador Espriu. Tickets can be purchased at A Casa Portuguese. 

Sounds like a great opportunity to learn more about Spain's neighbors to the west (and my ancestors!). 

:: More Information :: 

• Official Site: Portugal Convida 2010
• Gran Nit de Fado Amateur
• Concert with X-Wife and Dezperados
• Festa Popular with Pedro Abrunhosa
• Contemporary Photography Exhibit
• Portuguese Architecture Exhibit

 

Barcelona Events: Primavera Sound 2010

For many in Barcelona, Primavera Sound is the official start of summer and of the festival season. This year's Primavera Sound takes place at the Parc del Fòrum and hosts loads of bands. I keep trying to count, but lose track, so check the amazing line-up for yourself here. Big names include: The Charlatans, The Pixies, Pavement Pet Shop Boys, Wilco and Orbital. I would love to see Lee "Scratch" Perry and the Pet Shop Boys on Saturday. But alas, both are playing on separate stages at the same time. Primavera Sound showcases new bands and established bands with different styles and contrasting musical qualities.  

 
One of the more personal stages at Primavera Sound | Photo by: Marta Moreiras   

Primavera Sound isn't all about music either. Many parallel activities will take place during the festival. Various stages of art, performances and interactive experiences will help shape the entire Primavera Sound experience. One of the coolest is sure to be, the Adidas Originals stage celebrating El Xupet Negre, one of Barcelona's oldest urban artists, along with 20 urban artists from Paris, Madrid, Austria and Barcelona. 

Good news for families. Children under the age of 14 are allowed entrance free with their parents' or guardians' paid ticket. Plus, children have their own festival space at Minimúsica, where they can play and enjoy performances and workshops created especially with children in mind. 

:: More Information :: 

• Primavera Sound Timetable: a complete list of the the bands, show times and stage locations
• Tickets: Information on how to buy tickets for Primavera Sound 2010
• Location: How to get to Primavera Sound 2010 
• Two great Barcelona blogs, From Barcelona and Oh-Barcelona posted helpful guides and information for Primavera Sound 2010.