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Grocery Series: Buying Beef in Spain

Spanish Cuts of Beef | Gastronomiaycia

It has been ages since I did a post for my grocery shopping series. But don't worry, I am still taking photos and risking have another run-in with security. In organizing my pictures, I came across this old one that I snapped because I found the wording and information interesting. 

In the United States, I don't believe I have ever seen such an informative food label on a piece of meat. First, the piece of meat is labeled as "Roti de Ternera, Calidad y Origen." I believe a "roti" is somewhat like a roast. (I hope someone will correct me on this if I am wrong.) What I first noticed though was the listing "edad de sacrificio de 8 a 12 meses" (slaughtered age between 8 and 12 months). I really appreciate that the Spanish word for "slaughter" when related to meat is "sacrificio." I believe there is a stronger connection here between the fact that an animal has been sacrificed to provide a human with food. I doubt there are children here that think meat is made at the grocery store! The label also tells us that the animal was born in Spain ("nacido en Espana"). We also know the animal was raised in Spain ("engordado en Espana"), slaughtered and butchered in Spain ("sacrificado" y "depiece en Espana"). 

In Spain, buying beef can be a little tricky. Much of the beef you see in the supermarket, butcher or restaurants is labeled as "ternera." A quick look in your tourist dictionary may lead you to believe that"ternera" is veal. And out the window flies your idea of ordering albondigas or bistec at the charming tapas restaurant. Chat among Spain expat bloggers, language and recipe forums about "ternera" can also lead to confusion, with many insisting that "ternera" is veal.

Now, I am not a beef expert (although, being married to a man from Argentina has got to give me some points!). And I am sure that beef terms and labels are a bit different in my part of Catalunya than other parts of Spain. Definitely different than other Spanish-speaking countries. When we first moved here, my carnivore Argentine husband translated "ternera" as veal. Based on the amount of "ternera" labels I saw while grocery shopping, I was shocked by how much veal Catalans ate. And then I had my doubts. Could they really be eating this much veal - a meat that conventional wisdom says is expensive and controversial?

My desire to prove my husband wrong led me to conduct some informal research at local butchers and supermarkets. "Ternera" is not veal as we know it in the USA. In the United States, a calf slaughted between 16 and 18 weeks is considered veal (about 4 to 4.5 months old). The meat in my picture, labelled "ternera," was much older - 8 to 12 months (32 to 48 weeks old). According to the butchers I spoke with, "ternera," refers to young beef, but not totally veal. For what we, in the USA, consider veal, the beef would be labeled as "ternera lechal" (milk beef) or perhaps "ternera blanca." 

The beef from the above photo is labeled as "ternera blanca," and was slaughtered before it was 8 months old. Possibly veal in USA terms, but also possibly a wee bit older than the USA requirement for veal. I haven't quite figured out the USA equivalent to "babilla." And this young calf got around in his short life. He was born in Germany, raised and slaughtered in The Netherlands, back to Germany for butchering and now being sold in plastic wrap in Spain. 

You many also see some beef in Spain labeled as "añojo," which refers to beef that is between 18 and 24 months old. This beef was born, raised in Germany and traveled to The Netherlands for butchering before being sold in Spain. 

Isn't it interesting that there are so many terms to classify beef in Spain? And wouldn't you like to know where you beef has been before it is on your plate?  

I tend to buy my beef at a local butcher where they know me and love to answer all my beefy questions. Often times, when in doubt, I bring in a picture of the meat cut I want so they can show me the equivalent. I promise to take some pictures at the butcher. I absolutely love going to the butcher. I swear, I am tempted to ask them if they will hire me for a week, so that I can learn the proper way to cut meat. Maybe one of these days I will gather the courage to ask. 

Barcelona Finds: Baking Supplies

Since I recently wrote about Catalan birthday parties, I thought I should list some of the places where I buy my baking supplies in Barcelona or sites that have EU shipping. As I mentioned in that post, the baking section in supermarkets here is very limited. No pure vanilla extract. No chocolate chips. Powdered sugar is a plastic shaker bottle. You will have to find baking powder in the another section. And flour in another. 

Keyks in Madrid: An extensive retail and online store with super fast shipping and great customer service that has nearly everything you need for cake baking, decorating, candy making and the latest cake trend, "cake pops". I ordered powdered sugar by the kilo (it comes in a plastic bag) and rolled fondant from here. Owner Isabel also stocks lots of Wilton supplies, baking pans WITHOUT teflon (and some with non-stick also), and some cute cupcake liners. Keyks even has online cake decorating classes.

 

Sole Graells: Catering more to restaurants, caterers and professional chefs Sole Graells stocks a lot of ingredients that the average home baker won't need. Although it is fun browsing the chemistry-looking appliances used for creating the foams and gels that were popular at El Bulli. If you are hosting a party, you can also find lots of fun accessories for displaying and serving food, like test tubes for shots of gazpacho. At Sole Graells, I have bought food colorings, dark brown sugar, ready-made cake flowers and cake decorating gadgets. If you really want to stock up on pure vanilla extract they have a huge bottle; in addition to lots of other great aromas, extracts and spices. 

 

Químics Dalmau: This is a real drugstore/chemist selling raw chemical ingredients. I have bought cream of tartar (crémor tártaro) and pectin (pectina) here, which you order by the gram and receive in a little baggy. They also stock lots of essential oils, nut oils and aromas. They have a store in Barcelona and will also ship to you if you phone in an order. 

 

DeliShop: Several shops throughout Barcelona, and soon online, sell some baking supplies from the USA along with other hard-to-find international imports and gourmet items. I buy Nielsen-Massey vanilla extract from DeliShop. You will also find cake mixes, maple syrup, chocolate chips and even marshmallows. Expect to pay mouth dropping prices for a box of Cheerios, but every now and then it is worth every euro. 

 

Fabulous Baking Company: Visiting this bakery and cooking store has been on my list since I heard about it last year. I still can't believe I haven't been there! According to their website, they will have online shopping soon. In addition to a great bakery (from my sources who have been here), FBC has baking and cooking classes and a well-stocked baking supply and gadget boutique. Since I haven't been there, I can't say for certain, but according to their website photos it looks like they stock some American baking ingredients like vanilla extract, corn syrup, Crisco, Wilton products and tons of fun gadgets. I promise to go there this summer, even if it means eating a brownie and abandoning my "operacion bikini" efforts. 

 

Vinçon: An upscale modern-design furniture and homegoods store in the Eixample of Barcelona that sells a wide range of fun cooking and baking gadgets. Vinçon sells lots of silicone baking moulds, pastry decorating tools, high-end kitchen mixers and small appliances.  

 

Cooking, The Kitchen Company: A great kitchen gadget and cooking store, also in the Eixample. The store carries lots of solid brands such as Le Creuset, Lekue, Emile Henry, Staub, Cuisinart, KitchenAid, OXO and Kenwood. 

 

I am sure there are many other great resources for baking and cooking supplies? Know of any in Barcelona or stores that have great EU shipping rates? Add it in the comments and I will put it on the list. Muchas Gracias!

Catalan Customs: Birthday Parties

Typical Catalan birthday game (a more friendly alternative to a pinata) | 2010

A recent article from a fellow Barcelona blogger who writes for a local magazine, reminded me of a draft post that I started on 14 September 2010, a few days after my daughter's 7th birthday party. (I told you I had a backlog!) 

Having children in a foreign country gives you behind the scenes access to an event filled with cultural differences, which provide a deeper understanding of the local culture. The Birthday Party. 

We have hosted several birthday parties at our home since moving to Barcelona. With each party, I have adopted some local customs and yet, probably still leave some parents wondering "what kind of birthday party is this?" After attending birthday parties regularly (read, at least two a month) for the past two years, I have a better grip on how a kid's birthday party operates here. I really love going to the parties and noting the differences and similiarities. After all, most cultures celebrate birthdays, but how it is done can be completely different. And since we have been celebrating birthdays since our first birthday, it is surprising to realize how ingrained birthday customs so that operate on autopilot during parties. 

The Invitation

Don't be surprised when your child brings home a birthday party invitation the day before the party. Seriously, the day before!!! I don't think I will ever get used to this one. The first time it happened, I perceived the parents as poor party planners. But then it happened again and again. Chats with the other expat moms assured me that this was totally normal. Even with short notice, Catalan parents make a big effort to have their children attend the party. No wonder everyone found me strange, when I sent a "save the date" email for my son's party. 

The Gift

 
My son (in colored shirt) gives his friend his birthday gift | 2010

You can also forget about a big gift opening scene at a Catalan birthday party (at least in all the parties I have attended). Commonly, in the US, the birthday child will open all of their presents surrounded by their guests. In Catalunya, upon arrival, the excited guest runs as quickly as possible, with gift in hand, to find the birthday child. After a hug and two-cheek kiss, the guest gives the gift and it is immediately ripped open on the spot. At first I thought it was a bit out of control, but I have taken a liking to this approach. I find the moment is what gift giving should be - a shared moment of appreciation between the giver and receiver. Although it makes gift tracking for future thank you notes a bit difficult. 

The Cake

Typical Catalan birthday cakes at a recent birthday party

In the United States, themed birthday cakes are so common that you can buy a cake decorated in any theme at the supermarket. Go to the supermarket here in search of a basic cake and you will find something that looks like a grown-up cake. You won't have better luck going to a bakery either. (Although, in the 2+ years I have been here I have seen several specialty US-style cake decorators appear on the scene.) Judging by the size of the baking supply and ingredient section in the markets, I don't believe making decorated birthday cakes, let alone baking* period, is a big activity for Catalan parents. (*At least from my US-centric view of baking breads, pies, cookies and cakes. And who can blame them with two bakeries on every block!)

A typical birthday cake from a bakery or supermarket | Cocina Con Luz Verde

Within our circle of local friends, the moms do typically bake a very simple birthday cake. Perhaps a chocolate cake with an M&M-type candy spelling the child's name. Or maybe it is the Catalan version of the "sheet cake" - bizcocho or a thicker coca (like the first picture with three cakes) with sprinkles and a chocolate shape cut-out on top. Usually the cakes are less sweet and have a more dry texture compared to US cakes.

Cake I made for my daughter's 7th birthday | 2010

In the US, even the most inexperienced baker will whip up a decorated birthday cake. Parent magazines and websites always give instructions. It is easy to find cake decorating stores or little decoration trinkets at the supermarket. Heck, you can give take a cake decorating class at your local craft store. While a few cake decorating classes are popping up in Barcelona there is not the abundance of cake decorating options to be found. At the first birthday party we had here, I made a red cake with pink candy jewels and edible flowers. A local exclaimed, "What is it? Can we eat it? I have never seen anything like it." At first, I thought she was worried about the health aspects of the red food coloring. (My kids do attend a Waldorf school.) Turns out, she really has never seen anything like it at a birthday party. 

Typical American ingredients are hard time find - powdered sugar comes in a plastic shaker tube (not near the quantity needed to make frosting) and vanilla, don't even get me started (I have to trek to a special shop for it). Of course, I don't expect to find American ingredients here, but powdered sugar and vanilla extract seem fairly basic baking ingredients in many Western cultures. When we first moved here, I sawed open about five azucar glace shaker bottles to speed up my frosting creation, which resulted in shards of plastic sprinkled throughout the frosting. All that effort and I had to dump it in the trash. Now, I buy powdered sugar by the kilo from a cake decorating store in Madrid and other ingredients at a specialized restaurant/patisserie supply store in Barcelona. 

The Time

If the birthday party is held during the week, it will typically be after school, during the berenar (catalan) / la mirienda (castellano) time. Which is about 5 pm and would probably end before 8 pm (well before dinner). A few weeks ago, we went to a group birthday party (another common practice of holding one party for several classmates) on a Saturday that started at 4 pm. We left at 9:30 and we were one of the first families to leave! If the party is held on the weekend, it may start earlier, but must be observant of the Catalan's strict oberservance of "el tiempo de la comida" (lunch time). Catalans eat lunch at 2, 3 or even as late as 4 pm on the weekends. One of my son's parties started at 11 am on a Saturday. A Catalan friend was wondering if we would include lunch because it was such an odd time for a party. Although we had a ton of tapas, empanadas, pizza and Spanish tortillas, I thought for sure we would not have to worry about lunch because the party would be over by 2 pm. I was wrong. The party lasted until 5-6 pm. Thank goodness we had lots of food, even if it wasn't a typical Catalan lunch, people weren't hungry (I hope). Recently, we were at an American birthday party that started at 12 and lasted beyond 4 pm. Around 2 pm, some cheese or ham sandwiches were passed around. There wasn't enough for all the kids, so I assume it was not thought of as the lunch option, as probably the American family already had lunch before the party. In between party games, I noticed one Catalan family had packed a "tupper" (Tupperware) for "la comida." Perhaps word got around that the Americans don't serve a proper lunch at birthdays, so you better bring your own. 

 
Jump rope is a popular party game for girls and boys | 2010

The Location

Many Catalans live in pisos (a large apartment/flat), so they tend to hold birthdays at parks or indoor play spaces. Since we have never been to a "ludoteca" party, check out Joanna's experience over at The Metropolitan. At a park, parents will bring folding tables or cover the permanent ping pong tables with a table cloth. A grandparent's house with a large backyard or a masia (old, large Catalan country home) are also possible party locations. 

The Food

 
Catalan Moms making a delicious Pa Amb Tomaquet at a birthday party | 2011

As I mentioned in the "time" section, if the birthday party is going to extend over the time of la comida, you can expect to have more hearty tapas or finger type foods, like pizza. I have been to birthday parties where all the children sit down and eat their lunch together before having cake. During other times of the day, you can bet that there will be Spanish tortillas, jamon and pa amb tomaquet. You will probably find some trays full of sandwiches filled with chorizo, jamon dulce or cheese (but never mixed together) and for those with a sweet-tooth, nutella. And like most parties in the USA, you can find bowls of nuts and potato chips too. At some point bottles of cava will be passed around for a toast (for the adults). Coffee is a must, especially since the party may last at least 5 hours. If the party is at the park, coffee will be brought in a thermos and served in small plastic espresso cups, complete with small plastic spoons.

Catalan kids also do sack races like USA kids | 2010

So, this turned out to be a truly LONG post and there is still more I could write about Catalan children's birthday parties. Overall, I have found birthday parties here to not be the competitive parenting sport they can be in the USA. But this could also be a result of my kids attending a Waldorf school and most of our Catalan friends originating from that circle. If you have been to a child's birthday party in Spain what was your experience? Have you ever attended a children's party in a foreign country or with a different cultural origins? Write a comment and share your experience. 

 ** For local expats, I will do a follow-up post with links to the locations where I buy my party and cake decorating supplies in Barcelona and Madrid. **

Restaurants in Spain: Dining at El Bulli

 
Me and Diego with Ferran Adrià  | 16 October 2010

"Be careful, it's delicate." "Smell the sachet first, and in two courses you will eat what is inside." "Two bites only."

A few of the instructions we were given while eating our 39 course meal at EL BULLI! I still have a huge smile on my face as I type it. My dream came true. After all, it was one of the top five reasons I was willing to move to Spain - the chance to be closer to dining at El Bulli. When I reported on its pending two-year closing, I thought it would never happen. I feel so lucky to have the opportunity to eat at El Bulli.

Eating at El Bulli is no where near the right description for what someone does at El Bulli. Eating at El Bulli is a full body sensory experience. The smell, the texture, the color, the presentation, the service, the ambience. Every little detail is crafted and perfected. I am sure you have heard all the hype. And it is true. And it is worth it. Every little euro. 

Main Kitchen Area  | 16 October 2010

Entering the kitchen was a highlight. I was dying to put on an apron and walk over to one of the 70 chefs (!!!!) and watch closely as they prepared the "molecular gastronomy" we were about to experience. Instead, we were whisked over to meet Ferran Adrià, the man behind El Bulli and one of the world's best chefs. 

Pastry station  | 16 October 2010

The ambiance and decor of El Bulli really surprised me. I imagined a super sleek, ultra modern glass and steel restaurant. Instead, walking to our table for two, we found ourselves sitting in a pretty traditional Catalan-style restaurant. Heavy wood furniture, lots of artwork and upholstered chairs - often mismatched. Turns out, the decor is all original (probably minus the artwork) of the restaurant prior to El Bulli. 

Our Table  | 16 October 2010

Two to three waiterstaff served us throughout the evening. It is amazing to watch the orchestration of the superb staff. Plates were whisked away at the perfect moment. Somehow they can tell the difference between, I am not enjoying this course and a long pause in-between bites without ever asking you a single word. At the beginning of each course, they would introduce the course and give us very specific instructions as to the proper way to eat the course.

As soon as we sat down they brought us two glasses of Jaume de Codorniu Brut Gran Reserva while we browsed the wine list (ahem, book). Selecting a well paired wine for a menu of 39 courses when you have no clue what the courses will be is quite daunting. We went with a Grand Cru Alsace Riesling from 1998 (Cuvée Sainte Catherine Schlossberg L'Inédit, Domaine Weinbach-Colette) and were quite pleased with our choice. 

Check out the size of the wine list!  | 16 October 2010

On to the long-awaited 39 courses. Unfortunately, I didn't take pictures of each course. The courses come at a quick pace and often have to be eaten quickly before their texture changes. And, whipping out a camera 39 times just ruins the magic of it all. 

We started with three "cocktails." First, was a Strawberry Campari, which was a delightful way to kick off the meal. It was a frozen, strawberry shape that when you popped it in your mouth tasted like Campari. Next, we drank Warm Caipirinhas; a great way to warm up on a cold night. The cocktail was made as an infusion in a Bodum French Coffee Press and poured into glasses. Our final cocktail was an Almond-Fizz with Amaerna-LYO, the most traditional of all the cocktails, but with more of a foam/cream texture and a frozen berry similar to the Strawberry Campari. 

Gorgonzola Globe  | 16 October 2010

After the cocktails, we moved into some starters that were so much fun. I loved the Nori Seaweed with Lemon - paper thin empanadas filled with a bit of lemon. The salty, crunchy nori provided a tasty contrast to the tart lemon. While the Gorgonzola Globe is gastronomic theatre at its best, I couldn't take more than a few bites, it was so much for two people. The waiter brought a cream-colored sphere to the table, cracked it at the top and then topped it with freshly grated nutmeg as he told us to eat it quickly because it is gorgonzola ice cream. Next, we had an Aperitive Ice Cream, which was a little foamish, crunchy cone with a aperitif sorbet inside. The Parmesan "Porra"  was a flavorful bread stick. Next, we were told to eat our Hazelnut-Raspberries in one bite, lest, these frozen fusions would instantly melt. 

One version of the shrimp tortilla/ omelet  | 16 October 2010

I really loved the "compare and contrast" Shrimp Tortillas. A twist of the traditional Spanish tortilla served in two surprising approaches. One shrimp tortilla, which I don't have a picture of, but LuxEat has one, was a powdery-foam texture that melted in your mouth with the slightly sweet flavor of an egg tortilla and a sprinkling of dried shrimp. The other shrimp tortilla, pictured above, had a thin, crunchy egg tortilla base with the tiniest fresh shrimp I have ever seen. This tortilla contrasted with the first with its saltier taste and crunchier texture. The Coconut Sponge-Cake was an airy foam of two bites filled with the flavor of fresh coconut (scroll down on the Critical Couple's blog for a picture). One of my favorite courses, and of course, no picture (but check LuxEat, picture 14), was the Ham and Ginger Canapée. The translucent ginger shaving served with ham was out of this world. 

Shrimp Two Firings  | 16 October 2010

We had another two shrimp dishes to compare and contrast... Boiled Shrimp and Shrimp Two Firings. Our waiter directed us to "suck the head, eat the tail," as he presented the simple boiled shrimp. Normally, I am not into sucking shrimp brains, but when you are eating at El Bulli, you do as your are ordered, and I am glad I tried it. I fell in love with Shrimp Two Firings. First, we drank the soup made from the shrimp head (I am guessing) and then ate the lightly grilled shrimp. I loved how the two dishes portrayed very different approaches to eating a shrimp and thoroughly experiencing the flavor of the shrimp. 

Quails with Carrot "Escabeche"  | 16 October 2010

Quails with Carrot "Escabeche" consisted of four quail breasts that were painted with a carrot sauce at the table. Fortunately, after we ate the course, the waitress told us that the breasts were from four-day-old quails. So, that is why the quail breasts were so tiny! The course of Tomato Tartar was one of the best tomato dishes I have ever eaten (check A Life Worth Eating for a picture). Tomato was finely diced and topped with thin ice shavings. Our next course we were told was a Tiramisu, without any further information. I wonder if this was done purposely to juxtapose the flavors of what we would be eating with our mental image of tiramisu. The two had nothing to do with each other. 

Caviar Cream with Hazelnut Caviar  | 16 October 2010

The Caviar Cream with Hazelnut Caviar was another study in contrasts. My picture was taken after a few bites, so the color contrast is not so obvious. The grey sauce is a caviar sauce topped with hazelnut caviar. While the brown sauce is a hazelnut sauce topped with real caviar. I really loved this course, especially the real caviar with the hazelnut sauce. After a few bites, I found the hazelnut caviar a bit rich for my taste. 

Cold/Warm "Oronja" Mushroom  | 16 October 2010

Mushroom season is huge in Catalunya and we were delighted to have a course of mushrooms with the Cold/Warm "Oronja Mushroom. The dishes were essentially the same, except that one was served cold and the other warm. We preferred the warm dish. For the following course, the Truffle "Drap," we were instructed to open a cloth package and smell the aroma of the truffles, but to not eat the truffles. Next came a Parmesan "Macaron," which had the shape of a macaron but was more of a soft, creamy foam. When the next course was brought to the table, Truffled Blini, we were told to place the truffles from the "drap" on top of the blini. Delicious! 

Cold Sea Anemone with Bernacles  | 16 October 2010

The Cold Sea Anemone with Bernacles or Scallop with Anemone Risotto were not my favorite dishes, but that is probably due to my inexperience or timidness with shellfish and seafood. I did however enjoy the Oysters Guillardeau with Black Sand and Bone Marrow. 

Roses/Artichokes | 16 October 2010

The course in the picture above, Roses/Artichokes was fascinating. The outer circles are real, edible rose petals. The inner circle are artichoke leaves and a dash of silver. A sensory delight. 

Lulo "ceviche" and Oaxaca "Taco"  | 16 October 2010

As a huge fan of Mexican cuisine, I loved Ferran Adrià's take on the taco and ceviche with the Lulo Ceviche and Oaxaca Taco. The taco was a thin, powdery tortilla with thinly sliced contents of avocado and grapefruit. 

Endive in Papillote 50%  | 16 October 2010

The Endive in Papillote 50% course was theatrically presented with the waiter unwrapping the papillote carefully with tweezers. The endives were topped with olive oil caviar. 

Gazpacho and Ajo Blanco  | 16 October 2010

I loved the gazpacho portion of the Gazpacho and Ajo Blanco course, but found the ajo blanco a tad too strong and creamy for my taste. In the picture above, the gazpacho is the white snow-like inside part, and the ajo blanco is the creamier sauce on the outside. I had to laugh a little when I heard the man of obnoxious couple dining nearby say, "gazpacho, what the heck is that!" This course was followed by Turtledove with Blackberries Risotto with Cardamon with perfect fall flavors. I don't really remember the Hare Raviolli with "Bolonesa" and Blood.

Mimetic Chestnuts  | 16 October 2010

The Mimetic Chestnuts was pure fantasy. Faux chestnuts that appeared to be floating on top of the protective layer of a real chestnut. Amazing, delightful and delicious. 

Wild Strawberries with Hare Soup  | 16 October 2010

A flavor combination that is totally unexpected, but totally works Wild Strawberries with Hare Soup. 

Sugar Cube with Tea and Lime  | 16 October 2010

From there, we moved onto the palate cleansing and then dessert portion of the meal. This, along with the beginning cocktail section were my favorites. Our waitress delivered a wooden box to our table, Sugar Cube with Tea and Lime. Inside, we found frozen, lime-flavored sugar cubes that we drizzled with a tea oil. Fabulous!

Mojito and Apple Flute  | 16 October 2010

Catalans love to eat sandwiches called "flautas," (flute in English) that are little baguette breads filled with jamon or cheese. I love how Ferran Adrià gave a Catalan mainstay a cocktail twist - the Mojito and Apple Flute. The "bread" was a light foarm with apple flavor. The inside of the sandwich was an icy, blended mojito. I could eat many of these! This was one of my favorite courses!

Mini-Donuts  | 16 October 2010

Not your typical donuts. These Mini-Donuts were bitter, dark chocolate filled with a maiz paste. Can you see a South American/ Mexican theme running throughout?

"Coca de Vidre" - Crystal Cake  | 16 October 2010

Another twist on a typical Catalan specialty - Coca Vidre. The traditional coca vidre is an extremely thin flatbread dusted with sugar and pine nuts (here is a recipe). Ferran Adrià's coca vidre was a crunchy, glass-like hard sugar with pine nuts that tasted exactly like a traditional coca vidre. Loved it!

Gold Leaves  | 16 October 2010

Not your typical cup of espresso. Gold Leaves was a small bowl filled with espresso, a dusting of cocoa powder, gold leaves and mint leaves. Fantastic!

The Box  | 16 October 2010

The grand finale, the 39th course... the Box. An amazing array of handmade chocolates and confections in a huge box. The box is placed upon your table and you can nibble away. Ferran Adrià put heaven in a box! The woman pair of the obnoxious dining guests near us, loudly asked for a "to go box." As the waiter was packaging a few chocolates for the road for her, she loudly told the waiter, "oh don't worry about packaging them, I flew on my own plane." This, by the woman when chatting with me in the bathroom replied, "Yes. I have a show," when I asked if she was from the United States. 

So, there you have it... my 39 courses at El Bulli. It is really hard to put into words how dining at El Bulli feels. You experience it on so many different levels. It is like a fusion between a haute cuisine restaurant, a science lab and an art gallery. Ferran Adrià's is pure genius. With each course, you are delighted, amazed, bewildered, surprised and even perplexed. When dining at El Bulli you are able to decipher flavors, question assumptions and experience new possibilities. I am so thankful for the opportunity to go to El Bulli. 

Lonely Planet Blogsherpas: Jamon in Spain

My kids examining a wall of jamon in the supermarket | 2009

I rounded the corner in search of orange juice and yogurt. First I was overcome by an aroma that I had never smelled before. Immediately, my children pinched their noses and "ewwwwwed" loudly. "Mommy, What is that weird smell?" We walked a bit more. "Mommy, are those animal legs hanging on the wall?" Why, yes, that distinctive smell was Spanish jamon sold as close to its original form as I have ever seen. I could add this to the list of things I'd never see in my local Safeway in California. Entire legs, hoof and all, of a cured pig's leg. And darn, is it tasty!

An entire book could be written about the subject of jamon. Here are the basics that I learned by asking lots of questions at my local jamon shop. Jamon is a widely popular Spanish cured ham. Actually, widely popular is an understatement. It is a daily ritual for many in Spain. The whole pig's leg is cured by a layer of sea salt and hanged in a factory with windows open to catch the mountain breeze for one to four years. When jamon is served at room temperature and thinly-sliced, it nearly melts in your mouth. 

 
Jamon shop in Sant Cugat | 2009 

Fortunately, for those of us addicted to jamon iberico, it contains a high percentage of oleic acid with low levels of saturated fat and cholesterol, depending on acorn consumption, pig's exercise and curing length. During the curing process, the leg of jamon loses 20 to 40 percent of its weight. In bellota jamon, the remaining fat is converted into mono-unsaturated fat, thanks to the acorns and pig's free range lifestyle. 

Perhaps you have heard of Pata Negra or Jamon Serrano. Pata Negra is the same as Jamon Iberico. Interestingly, in the United States, foodies talk about the exclusivity of Pata Negra, which wasn't allowed to be imported until 2009 and then faced "hoof" problems. Here however, I have yet to hear a local mention Pata Negra opting to use Iberico instead. 

 
My daughter snacking on free cone of jamon at local shop. | 2010

Jamon Iberico de Bellota / Pata Negra Bellota

• The holy grail of jamon. 
• Only made from Iberico pigs, which are black (hence the black hoof) and fatter than the pink pig stereotype. Genetically, these pigs have an ability to store fat in their muscles, giving excellent marbling and flavor. 
• At about 10 months, pigs destined to be Jamon Iberico de Bellota are raised free-range in an area called the dehesa near the Spanish - Portuguese border. During this period, montanera, the pigs gain about half of their body weight. 
• In the dehesa, the pigs feast on acorns (bellotas) and wild planets. Each pig can eat around ten kilos of acorns a day!
• More fat allows the meat to be cured longer than other jamon types. Jamon Iberico de Bellota is cured for more than two years, typically three and less than four years. 
• Bellota jamon costs at least twice as much as jamon iberico. 
• Very high in mono-unsaturated fat.

Jamon Iberico / Pata Negra

• Made from Iberico pigs, which are black and fatter than the standard pink pig. 
• Mono-unsaturated fat is not as high as bellota jamon because of the smaller acorn diet. 
• Different grades depending on the pigs' exercise and diet. Recebo grade pigs spend less time in their montanera, gaining less than half of their body weight. Recebo pigs are then fattened before market using cereal feed. Cebo grade is Iberico pigs raised on cereal feed. Iberico grade pigs are usually cereal fed and completely raised on farms without the lovely montanera holiday. 

Jamon Serrano

• Jamon Serrano translates in English as "mountain ham." Historically, jamon was cured in mountain areas with hot, dry summers and cold winters. 
• Nowdays, Jamon Serrano is produced throughout Spain, using climate-controlled factories. Although some is still made in mountain towns. 
• Jamon Serranno comes from the leaner white pigs, who store fat outside the muscle unlike Iberico pigs. 
• Jamon Serrano is typically cured for one year.
• Serrano has a more salty flavor. 
• Jamon Serrano is much cheaper than Jamon Iberico, usually half the price. 

Jamoneras to hold jamon leg in your kitchen | 2009

A whole jamon leg can be quite an investment. I have seen prices range from 50 euros to 850 euros. Many Spanish companies give a leg of jamon as an employee Christmas gift. Asking around, it seems one leg lasts about three months. The leg is stored on a jamonera and covered with a cloth. I know if we had a jamon leg in our kitchen, our amount of midnight snacking would drastically increase. A little slice of iberico here and there would be too much to resist. 

Most restaurants that sell plates of jamon have a professional jamon cutter, a cortador. Cutting jamon properly is serious business, usually done with a long, extremely sharp knife. One of the cortadores in my local shop gave me a very thorough explanation on the subetlies of machine versus knife cutting. If you didn't know he was talking jamon, you'd think he was reading poetry or perhaps he was dreaming about playing a jamon violin? 

Christmas promotion at a Catalan bank | 2009

You can get your jamon fix from my affiliate partner (I will get a commission if you do) La Tienda, a gourmet Spanish importer with a fabulous online shop. 

This blog on food around the world is part of the Lonely Planet Blogsherpa's blog carnival hosted by Tie Dye Travels, which will go live on 8 October 2010. The previous carnival was hosted by Sophie's World on the Lonely Planet blogger's favorite places. Look forward to the next "spooky story" carnival hosted by Hello, Pineapple? on 22 October 2010. 

Grocery Series: Meet Capitán Gaucho

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Remember good ole' Capitán Mani? The baseball playing peanut selling "The Original Peanut Butter" imported from the USA? Let me introduce you to his friend from Argentina, Capitán Gaucho who sells imported dulce de leche. 

You would be hard-pressed to find a jar of Capitán Mani peanut butter in the United States. And I doubt you'll be meeting his buddy Capitán Gaucho on your next trip to Argentina. 

These two mascot stereotypes selling a very stereotypical product from their homelands gives me a chuckle whenever we meet in the international aisle of the supermarket. Especially since my family is an USA - Argentine household living in Spain. 

We always have a jar of peanut and dulce de leche in our kitchen. Occasionally, Capitan Mani makes an appearance when I am too lazy to go to the health food store that carries a better quality peanut butter. Apparently, my family is a bit more discerning when it comes to dulce de leche. They'd never let Capitán Gaucho cross the threshold. My four year old son informed me that "we do not buy that kind of dulce de leche." 

While on the topic of dulce de leche, I have a funny little story about a trick my nearly seven year old daughter plays on babysitters. When it is time for bed, she tells the babysitter that she and her brother always have a snack. She informs the babysitter that I want them to have sliced bananas with dulce de leche. When the babysitter asked if that was really true, she made this argument. "Yes, bananas with dulce de leche. But if I ask for peanut butter and jelly, definitely you cannot let me have it. That wouldn't be allowed." 

Orange Polka Dot's Grocery Series: Check out my other discoveries while grocery shopping in Spain. 

 

Grocery Series: Cheese-Filled Hot Dogs

A hot dog filled with muchiiisimo queso. So much cheese, in fact, Oscar Mayer had to add two more letter "i"s to muchisimo. I bet my friends back in the States wish they could add some Oscar Mayer Rolling Cheese wieners to their Memorial Day menus. 

Seriously. Rolling Cheese? 

As a marketer, I have learned two things should I ever work for a consumer packaged goods company here in Spain. 

1. Consumers apparently like english product/brand names. 

Or perhaps, companies choose to use english names to add to the product's image or try to add a quality que. Almost always, the english name is a grammatically incorrect. Or in the Rolling Cheese case, a tad repulsive. Makes me wonder about how many products with psuedo-ethnic names in the USA are totally missing the boat?

2. Processed meat injected with processed cheese apparently has a supportive customer base in Spain.

 
Notice in the picture above, the package next to the Rolling Cheese. It is "Wieners Queso." The descriptor on the package is "mordiscos jugosos," which means "juicy bites." And remember, Buguis - hambuguesas con queso? 

Perhaps, the processed meat + processed cheese combo also has multiple varities in the USA since I moved? I am sure the average Spaniard may well assume Americans are eating this type of stuff on a daily basis. 

I admit, as a kid I had a fondness for when my grandmother would buy, *as a treat* for me and my brother, the Oscar Mayer ham with cheese dots in each slice or the hot dogs injected with dots of cheese. But as an adult, the thought of eating those creations makes me... well, not hungry. I hope my USA-based readers let me know if Oscar Mayer or other processed meat companies are offering more varieties of cheese-injected meat. Maybe Spain is ahead of the curve in creating meat vehicles for cheese. 

 

Grocery Series: Canned Corn

After going a year without fresh corn, I was desperate and moseyed down the canned/jarred goods aisle. I found a culinary surprise - in addition to plain corn, you can find corn mixed with fruit. Could be really tasty or a bit strange (at least for my "corn goes with butter and salt" taste buds). 

 

The first photo is "Maiz con Pina." Corn with pineapple. The second, is "Maiz con Papaya." I have only seen corn mixed with fruit by the brand, Horticola Del Ebro. The "Ebro" part of the brand name, I believe refers to the Delta del Ebro area that is about two hours south of Barcelona along the coast. Agriculture is the main economy of this fertile region, with rice being the main crop. 

Corn is fairly sweet, so it may taste good with fruit. I will give it a go and let you know. I have only seen corn and fruit combinations at the Eroski supermarket. Which makes me wonder if it is a Catalan flavor preference, a creation inspired by another culture group that has immigrants living here or simply something the company thought tastes great together? Lots of Catalan cooking does seem to combine sweet and savory flavors. I am thinking "Maiz con Pina" may be tasty accompaniment inside a chicken taco - absolutely nothing to do with Catalan cooking though. Maybe a salad? Off to cook, it is lunch time over here...

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Barcelona Festivals: Easter

On Sunday, April 4th, many around the globe celebrated Easter. Well, here in Spain, Pascua or Easter is more than a day, it is a long weekend event and lasts through Monday. I get the feeling that Easter is a more important celebration in other regions of Spain. It is important in Catalunya, but does not seem to have the prominence in the community that you hear about in Seville and Malaga.

 
Palma Blanca Artisans | Photo:  Diaro Informacion

Typically, schools are closed during Semana Santa (Holy Week) - the week preceding Easter Sunday. Semana Santa begins with Domingo de Ramos (Palm Sunday). Prior to Palm Sunday, throughout the city, you will see people selling elaborate scultpures made from palm fronds. And to think I was impressed with my mom making a cross out of our palms from Palm Sunday as a child!

Jueves Santo (Maundy Thursday/ The Last Supper) is a public holiday in Spain. Some travel guides state that it is not observed in Catalunya, however some places of businesses were closed or were only open in the morning. 

Viernes Santo (Good Friday) is a public holiday as well (in fact, many companies are closed entirely during Semana Santa). Catholics are not supposed to eat meat on Fridays during Lent (some avoid meat on all Fridays and some only on Good Friday). Lines at the fishmongers were especially long during Semana Santa. On Good Friday, the famous processions of hooded penitents carrying crosses representing the death of Jesus take place. Cities in the south of Spain are known for large processions and people even camp out over night for good viewing spot. Barcelona held two Viernes Santo processions.

 
Good Friday Procession | Photo: ACA Cofradia Hospitalet de Llobregat Barcelona

Pascua (Easter Sunday) 

 
Pascua Procession | Photo: ACA Cofradia Hospitalet de Llobregat Barcelona

On Pascua (Easter Sunday) hoods are removed during the day's processions as Catholics rejoice the resurrection of Jesus. Families gather for meals and enjoy many sweet treats as Lent is officially over. 

Pascua Lunes (Easter Monday) is a public holiday in Catalunya, but supposedly not the rest of Spain (they had Thursday and Friday off, Catalans get Friday and Monday). I am not quite sure what Monday is about and why it is a holiday? 

:: Easter Food ::

 
Bacalao | Photo: La Tienda Spanish Imports

Popular Easter and Lent fish dishes in Catalunya are Bacalao (salt cod), Bacalao with Garbanzos and Bacalao with Potatoes (recipes are in Spanish, you may use Google Translate to change into your language.) 

Monas de Pascua | Photo: Alimentacion y Cultura and Gastronomia y Cia

However, the real stars of the Pascua meal are the sweets! La Mona de Pascua is an Easter cake made with eggs that were supposed to be saved during Lent (I wonder if anyone really does this anymore?). In bakeries, I saw some simple Monas de Pascua that looked like the figure eight style in the first photo or a plain ring with a few toppings. More prolific are the feathered and heavily-decorated cakes similar to the second photo. Traditionally, Godparents give their godchildren a mona for Pascua. 

Bunyols | Photo: XTEC Malegret

Bunyols/Buñuelos (recipe in Catalan) are one of my favorite Easter treats. These fried doughnuts remind me of the Portuguese Fillozes that I grew up eating on Madri Gras. Definitely forbidden during Lent, I was surprised to see these at bakeries throughout the Lenten season (and I definitely made up for all my past restraint and nibbled one whenever I could!)

Grocery Series: Galets de Nadal

 

This entry was supposed to be posted before Christmas. But since I still see these boxes in the grocery store... I think I am within a reasonable time of posting a Christmas grocery shopping and cooking tradition. After all, while my friends back in California are taking down their Christmas decorations, the Catalans will be celebrating until Los Reyes Magos (The Epiphany) on January 6th. 

Galets de Nadal are a shell-shaped pasta that is part of traditional Catalan Christmas cuisine. The shells are served in Escudella i Carn d'Olla, a type of stew/soup with pasta, meats and "pilotas"/meatballs. It seems that the galets are only sold during Christmas time. At least, this is my assumption since I have never noticed the large shells before on the shelves. Also, the pasta is sold in Christmas-styled packaging, at least during December. I will have to check the shelves during the next few months to see if the galets are sold throughout the year. Or, a friendly Catalan reader could post a comment here and let us all know... 

Escudella Photo by arquera / Emi Yañez | commons.wikimedia.org

According to Anna of the blog, This Curious Thing Called Catalonia, Escudella i Carn d'Olla's "broth is made out of potato, cabbage, garbanzo beans, onions, leeks, celery, carrot and garlic." The "carn d'olla" stew part is "black sausage, white sausage, meatballs, veal, lamb, hen/chicken and bacon." The escudella i carn d'olla may be served together or separately (the broth, the carn d'olla and the ingredients used in the broth, see Anna's pictures). 

 
Galet Sculpture Outside Barcelona Ajuntament
 

Galets are such a part of the local culture that the Barcelona Ajuntament (city council) along with Gallina Blanca (pasta and soup company) commissioned 26 huge galet sculptures throughout the city. We had a great time discovering these large pasta shells during our Barcelona excursions. As of December 31st, I didn't see many around the city, but the one in front of Barcelona's Ajuntament in Plaça Sant Jaume remains. 

Galets de Nadal Recipes

• Clifford A. Wright's Escudella - Catalonian Stew Recipe
• Spanish Recipes Pic by Pic's Carn d'Olla Pillota Recipe